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By cutting with a laser, material is evaporated by means of heat. The removed material is therefore released in the form of vapor or soot. Always use the laser cutter in a well-ventilated area. Take care when working with plastic material. Some types release toxic gases chorin gas. Acrylic PMMA should be safe to use. This laser can set items on fire. Keep your workbench clean and free of inflammable items. And don't leave this machine running unattended.

I didn't want to risk my regular camera. There are several ways to control the speed of a fan. And the printer's mainboard handles the speed control of this fan.

There is no feedback from the fan to the mainboard. In fact, you can run this printer with no fan connected ABS filament. The fan used for this printer is a 12 volt fan.

And it is quickly switched on and off to make it run slower. However, the voltage used is 12 volts, and not 5 volts as required with regular PWM devices. Remember, the 12 Volt output is always on or off, there is no voltage regulation. The speed of the pulses and the inertia of the fan cause the fan to run slower as the pulses become shorter.

The laser is therefore always on or off. There is no half power! The average power is controlled by switching the laser on and off very quickly. The amount of energy released on average is therefore lower. The Anet mainboard is specially designed for this printer. And it is not taken into account that someone wants to convert it into a laser cutter. The Anet A8 fan is a 12 volt fan which requires 0.

Which should be the maximum power output for this port. It should be possible to connect a 2 Watt mW laser directly to this fan port. I don't recommend this, but this port should be able to drive the mW Alfawise 12 volt laser directly. The speed of the fan is controlled with the M GCode command. A value of gives the maximum speed, and a value of gives half speed. Measuring the fan with a regular multimeter gives the following values:.

To reduce the voltage from 12 volts to 5 volts two resistors are used: 12 volts and 0. This is way too much current, since the port is only used as a logic PWM import port.

I opt for a total resistance of about 1 KOhm. This gives a maximum current of 12 mA. To divide the 12 volts into 5 and 7 volts, this requires two resistors of and ohms.

However, these are not standard resistance values. The nearest available value is Ohm. A total resistance of Ohm. With a nearest available value of Ohm.

It is possible to attach the laser near the existing extruder. But this reduces the total work area. That's why I made a mount plate to replace the entire extruder carriage. The mount plate consists of two parts. The first part is attached to the bearings and the second part to the laser m3 bolt. Then both parts are attached to each other. This laser must on focus on the material. This is very simple: Rotate the focusing ring until the dot is the smallest.

This places the energy of the laser on a small surface. Which gives maximum results. You can focus the laser onto the heatbed, but the laser won't be in focus on top of the material. Use a piece of material 3 mm wood and move the laser Z axis 20 mm about 1 inch above the material.

Because the Z axis can move, it is not necessary to refocus the laser when using thicker material. Don't focus the laser at full power. Remove the PWM signal cable to enable manual control. Another way to find the right focus point is to draw straight line, where the Z distance increases slowly.

This can be done with the following GCode:. Then the laser is turned on full always wear the goggles. And the laser moves in a zig-zag pattern to a height of 50mm. I manually pre-focussed the laser at about 20 mm. And this test showed that 15 mm is a better value. Executing this test at a lower value gives a better result. MakerCase is a web-based application for designing boxes or project cases for laser cutters and CNC routers. And I'm using the output from this website to explain the workflow to create a small box with this laser.

This is not the most optimal way, but it clearly shows the different steps. The 3D box design must be saved to a SVG file. Disable the labels and use black as line color. This readable SVG file contains all lines which are required to create this box.

Select the six parts and press "Create Operation" with the Outside operation. And save the GCode to a local file. The GCode file contains all commands which must be executed by the printer. And It's far from perfect to be used for a laser cutter. But it creates very readable GCode which makes this a perfect example. There is no 'HOME' command in this file.

You have to home the laser to the initial position yourself, before executing this file. All values are in absolute milimeters common for 3D printers and the third line moves the toolhead an additonal 20 mm above the heatbed.

There are some problems with this file and I will solve them in the next step with a different tool :. All "plunge" lines are replaced with "laser on" commands. And the "retract" lines are replaced with "laser off" commands. Inkscape is a vector graphics software which allows to create and alter SVG files. Inkscape makes it possible to modify this file.

And I've added six numbers to the MakerCase output file. The SVG file has to be converted to a Gcode file required for the laser cutter. This can be done with a plugin in Inkscape.

This gives a "Generate Laser Gcode" option in the Extensions menu. Select all objects in the SVG file and convert these to paths. Select the plugin and use the M and M commands twice to turn the laser on and off.

The file starts with disabling the laser M S0 equals M, which is deprecated and doesn't allow parameters. And the printer is placed in absolute position mode with values in milimeters. Then the laser moves to position X The G2 commands move the toolhead just like G0 and G1.

But G2 and G3 are circular movements. Normally this would move the toolhead 0. But the G91 places the printer in relative position mode. And after the movement the G90 places the printer back in absolute postion mode. The laser is turned off before moving down M S0 and turned on after reaching postion X This Gcode file doesn't home the printer and it doesn't focus the laser.

The GCode file from the Inkscape contains the G1 commands to move the toolhead linear to a certain position. This command is normally used for to extrude filament. The file doesn't contain the G0 rapid move command.

It changes the speed with the F-parameter instead. The file also contains G2 and G3 codes. And these circular commands are not common for 3D printers. And the Anet a8 firmware allows these commands. I've tested the entire file with usage of a marker first image. The laser code enables and disables the fan when moving with G0.

But It doesn't move the Z axis up and down. GCode programs are a list of commands to control automated machine tools like cnc machines, 3D printers and laser cutters. Normally it's the slicer who translates the 3D model STL-file into gcode instructions. The output of the slicer depends on the printer and material settings. Laser cutters require 2D SVG files. These can be translated to GCode files with the Inkscape extension. It takes a program like ' pronterface ' to send Gcode commands to the printer.

I would advice the graphical interface to start with. But you can also use the command line version. But you can also enter GCode commands. This Instructable uses the following commands. And you can try them safely after disconnecting the laser's power wires.

G0 and G1 are used for linear movement. They are the same , but G0 is normally used for rapid movement. The speed is defined by the F-parameter or the last known speed is used.

Move from the current position to the new X, Y position with a constant distance circular from position I, J. You can move the toolhead G0 to a certain position and redefine this position as the new 'home' position G92 X0 Y0. This way you can start your file on any position of the heatbed. The "M S0" commands disables all software endstops. This allows for usage of negative X and Y values. The laser will be connected to the 12 volts printer's power supply. As shown in the first image.

And I was about to connect the reduced fan output as a PWM input. One of the fan output pins is directly connected to the 12 Volts of the power supply. But this mainboard uses the other - pin to control the speed: When this pin is high 12V the fan is off, and when this pin is low the fan is on. Like an inverted signal. And connecting one of these pins to the GND will cause a short circuit second image when using a single power supply.

The best way to solve this problem is to use an opto-isolator optocoupler. This sepperates the mainboard fan output signal from the laser input signal. And I've made and tested a small circuit using an EL optocoupler. This circuit also ensures that this solution will also work with other 3D printers. Replace the 1 KOhm resistor for a Ohm resistor for printers using a 5 Volt fan. It should be possible to use an optocoupler module. But the EL optocouplers are very cheap and easy to use.

This testfile creates 8 squares of 1 x 1 cm. And can be used to test the requires number of passes to cut through material. You have to adjust the focus height Z20 to the value for your laser. And it looks like this laser is capable of cutting 3mm wood in. The required number of passes depends on the type of wood used. Another type of 3 mm wood took 6 passes. Some 5 mm plywood can be cut in 8 to 10 passes, but this requires small movements in the Z-axis.

Cutting is only possible with the relatively soft woods. And it seems that glue connections give the most resistance. As a result the stronger water-resistant glued wood falls off. This means that the end product can only be used indoors. The Inkscape GCode file starts at postion 0,0 on the heatbed of the 3D printer and it doesn't focus the laser.

The first step is to home the printer. Then move the laser off to te desired start X,Y position and make this the new home with the "G92 X0 Y0" command. And focus the laser by moving the Z axis with "G0 Z20 F". After these two commands the laser is on focus at the "home" position. This box took about 30 minutes 5 passes to cut. I started with 4 passes. Since I didn't remove the wood from the headbed I was able to start a fifth pass.

The only part which didn't work well was a knot in the wood. These imperfections in the wood must be avoided with this laser. There are two ways to engrave with a laser. The first way uses a vector line image: The laser engraves the lines into the wood surface. The second way is for photo images which don't contain vector lines: Many small dots are burned in the wood.

And from a distance the end result look like the original image. Inkscape can be used to translate the vector image to GCode single pass at medium to low power. The first step is to create a new device. The origin is on the front-left with a x mm engraving area. The second step is to alter the speed and laser control options.

The software has many options, but it's easy to create a first project. Open the cartoon Adobe illustrator image and rescale it. You can edit the image after ungrouping arrange menu.

Remove the lines which indicate the image size if necessary. This image has 5 layers, and the lines from each layer have a different color. The first results where fine, but it took some time to finish. Because the wood was slightly harder, the lines were slightly thinner.

The latter is something to take into account. Each type of wood requires its own settings for speed and output power: Always start with a small test. I noticed some 'lines' where the laser should be off during my first tests. And I thought they where caused by errors in my manual written GCode.

Until I tried to engrave lines with LightBurn. The GCode output was correct, and NCviewer confirmed this. And I didn't had this 'problem' with the GCode for the boxes. This shows an important difference: G4 P0. This is a wait command. And this is placed before each M fan command. The 3D printer's firmware has a small buffer.

It stores about 16 commands. And it looks like the 3D printer's firmware executes the fan commands immediate, instead of storing them in the buffer. This causes the GCode commands to be out of sync.

It's is not important whether the fan starts a little earlier or later when 3D printing. But in this case the laser turns on or off too quickly. It looks like the "G4 P0" command solves this problem. This means "wait until all previous moves are finished". And it looks like the fan speed command also waits for this command to finish. So don't pause the printer when the laser is on.

Or use the "M S0" command to turn off the laser. A photo of 20 x 20 cm is converted to lines 10 lines per cm.

The maximum continuous usage time for this laser is 1 hour. The move commands after the G91 command line 9 are all relative positions. The laser is turned on and the toolhead moves right for 0.

Then the laser is turned off, and the toolhead moves right for 0. And this continues for almost a million lines. With 6 lines per dot, this gives about , dots for an image of 10 x 10 cm. This is why it takes about 3 hours to complete the entire grayscale test. There is no need to print the entire file. Lasering the first row gives enough information for the optimal power settings. The most right square should be dark, but not completely burned.

And each squares to the left must be brighter. Where I am very satisfied with the engraving of lines, I find this less suitable to do with a 3D printer.

However, good results can be achieved with the right photo. For example, choose a photo with a light background and not too many details. Besides wood, paper and acrylic, there is another material that is suitable for a laser cutter: fabric. The laser even seals the edges. Working with this laser is much more accurate than regular cutting of thick felt. For example, dampers for stepper motors can easily be made. It is also easy to apply complex patterns.

Don't apply too much power. And it took only two passes to cut 3mm adhesive felt. The first pass for the felt, and the second pass for the paper. The second test at half power took 3 passes.

But two passes should be fine. There is no need to cut through the paper. Telecharger proteus 8. İsa Ertem July 12 at AM. Hello, Thank you for this instructable I am hoping to fix my anet A8 board that I managed to break yesterday while attempting to fl;ash it with Marlin 2.

My question is can I use a 10pin to 6 pin converter to connect my arduino to the Anet as I feel it might be safer for me at my age 76 and with a shaking disability than attempting to connect jumper leads. Hope you are still monitoring this great instructable. Download 1 Screenshots.

A robust IDE that enables you to write code and upload it to an Arduino board to test it Arduino is a feature-rich and cross-platform IDE that enables you to write, compile and upload code to an Arduino board.